The Strait of Malacca

Official departure time is 9am, but it’s nearly 10am and we still haven’t started boarding yet... it must be a sign of things to come. I hear that it’s perfectly normal for a boat (or any form of transport) to be a few hours late in Indonesia... welcome back to the rubber time a la Laos.

By 10.30, we’re boarded and on our way, and the sheltered waters give no indication of the rough seas ahead, but they’ve hung up small black plastic vomit bags around the boat. As we round the bottom of the Penang island group, we see the seas, and there’s a collective groan from the passengers.

Within half an hour, people are heaving up their breakfasts left and right. The strain of emptying stomachs can be heard above the sound of the rumbling diesel engines, and the conditions seem to be getting worse. We launch off a particularly large wave, and there’s an almighty gasp, followed by a fresh round of yakking. Some chunder in silence, but most of my fellow passengers were loud chuckers – and some of them deserved an Oscar for their performance.

North by north west Malaysia – the final days

With the Indonesian Visa in hand, we climb aboard a bus and head north, bound for the cool, tea growing area of the Cameron Highlands. As I step of the bus in Tanah Rata, I get an unusual feeling... is that cold? After the past 6 months, where the only coolness has been artificially produced conditioned air, it’s both novel and refreshing to be naturally cold.

After an initial suspicion about a lack of fan in the room, I realise that I’ll need that extra blanket they jokingly brought for me. On the road, I’ve realised the value and importance of simple things – hot showers and comfortable pillows. This place has both in abundant supply, and with the weather a little on the cool side, it’s heavenly to disappear under the blankets with a good book.

The Cameron Highlands is pretty famous (in Malaysia anyway) for tea plantations, so we head out to the biggest in the area, BOC tea. Since living in the UK and travelling in India, my tea appreciation has increased exponentially and the tea they knock out at BOC is pretty much top notch. Scones with jam and cream aren’t too bad either, though I really need the walk back after dominating more than my fair share.

Soon we’re on a bus north again, heading for the north-west Malaysian island of Penang. Stepping out of the air-conditioned bus into the coastal humidity is like being asphyxiated with a warm wet blanket– instantly hot and sticky, and a big shock after the past few days in a cool climate. The boat for Indonesia leaves tomorrow which throws a spanner in our works - we planned to have a couple of days in Penang, but a few is too many... so we’re leaving Penang after spending only one afternoon here.

We scramble for essentials – a good book to read, some pharmaceuticals, and a few odds and ends, and then spend a couple of hours wandering the streets of Little India. I fall in love with India all over again – the mad energy, loud music and genuinely happy faces are inspiring and invigorating. I sense a trip to India on the horizon..