Bukit Lawang

Perched on the edge of a mountain range draped with thick jungle, Bukit Lawang is a sleepy little village three hours from Medan. Another indication that we have changed country – the roads are narrow with crater sized holes and way too much traffic. Although it looks manic, it brings a smile to my face as everything works almost too well - weaving through the cars, bikes, trucks and buses with horn constantly depressed is business as usual. In the jungle near Bukit Laweng there’s an orang-utan sanctuary, and I’m keen to catch a glimpse of these amazing creatures in the wild.

The sanctuary is a sort of half way house for orang-utans – there’s feeding times twice a day for rehabilitated animals. We scramble up the path and sit in silence, anticipation building, waiting for the orang-utans to swing in. The ranger bangs his bucket, and waits. I close my eyes and listen to the silence... just the sounds of nature - wind in the trees, small birds singing and crickets calling. Then there’s a crash, and a female orang-utan appears high in the canopy, along with her offspring. There’s a low murmur, and I watch with expectancy as she assesses the situation and gently swings in. It’s an absolutely amazing spectacle to see this magnificent wild animal approach. The swings are relaxed and precise, as she shifts her weight gently but decisively through the branches.

The ranger carries his bucket over to the crowd, and sits really close to me – before long the beautiful creature swings in to avail itself of a free feed. As I watch her at close range, I can see her eyes brim with knowledge and wisdom – so much like a human’s eyes – and its a powerful experience just to be sitting there in her presence. I think this is one of the moments I will remember for a lifetime, and one thing’s for sure - I have a smile on my face as wide than the Pacific Ocean that nothing can take off.