Leaving the ocean side cocoon of Prachup khiri Khan, we head south to Surat Thani for the ferry to Koh Samui. I’ve avoided Koh Samui based on rumours – rumours which were completely unfounded... well sort of. If you head to the main tourist settlement of Chaweng the beach is picture postcard perfect, but expect to find 5 star resorts back to back, and shopping malls by the dozen.
With an international airport, Koh Samui is a top destination for the 2 week holiday makers, and I can see why people come here, but it’s not exactly the scene I’m chasing. Head to the next bay north or south and there’s quiet bays with ice white sand and deep aqua-marine water. Paradise is the reward for persistent searching. We hire a motorbike as old as the hills, who we aptly dub Methuselah – strong as a bull but tired on the long winding ascents – and hit the roads to explore the island.
Looking north across the water from our beach side bungalow, we can see the smaller island of Koh Phagnan, which comes alive once a month for the Full Moon Party (FMP). We’ve purposely planned to arrive after the Full Moon so we miss the crowds and inflated prices. When we arrive three days after the party, locals are still recovering, there’s rubbish lying around the place and the infrastructure is struggling to catch up. Sad that tourists come to Thailand to see beautiful, untouched beaches, and yet contribute to their degradation.
But that's enough of my rant. Being the week post FMP, it’s deliciously quiet and the rain makes it good times for relaxing with a book, and that's exactly what I do.
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