South-central Vietnam

The afternoon monsoon, building arrogantly on the horizon, draws air with increasing intensity. Nature in it's pure, unadulterated form, not attributing worth or feeling obligation - it just 'is', wild and free, constantly morphing, never static, ready to release it's collected load. We've finally run into the monsoon in Hoi An, and the rain is refreshing and a great relief all at once - it's actually a novelty to be dodging warm puddles on a steaming, wet street instead of sweltering like a dog.

Hoi An is particularly well known for tailors - at last count there are over 400 tailor shops in the town, and from dawn to dusk, they are on the street corner keen to get your business. The narrow streets are lined with quaint French colonial buildings, and like Hanoi, packed with patisseries and great restaurants. With just one night in Hoi An, it's really just a glorified stopover, so there's no time for tailoring.

South bound in a sleeper bus, before you know it we hit the beach resort town of Nha Trang. I'm keen to do some diving, and head off to check out what's on offer at the various dive establishments. I've heard a few stories about dodgy dive operators here, and my investigations reinforce this rumour. After a few false starts, I choose the largest and oldest company in Nha Trang - sometimes a lower price is just not worth it. Due to dynamite fishing and a building monsoon the diving nowhere near as good as the Red Sea, but I spot some awesome critters including a cool red seahorse and some wicked little nudibranchs. Shit it's good to get back in the water.