Down south in Laos

If I have only one tip for Laos, it's south, south, south. With tails firmly between legs, we head south to the capital. Vientiane is relatively small, as far as cities go, but it oozes quiet charm and sophistication. Beautiful tree lined streets ramble along past aged French colonial buildings, great coffee shops, an amazing rendition of the Parasian Arc de Triomphe, and Lao people going about their daily business (gasp!). It's only a stopover, but what a nice stopover!

Soon we're heading south to Four Thousand Islands, a group of islands bordering Cambodia on the Mekong. It's a serious trek - around 18 hours total travel via bus and boat, but so worth it. The further we head south, the more Laos relaxes, and I'm not sure if this is even the same country. Still, I'm pleased with the metamorphasis. As we approach Don Khon, bungalows complete with hammocks adorn the banks while palmtree sway lazily in the breeze. A delicious, decadent feeling of relaxation tumbles over me as we stroll up the road looking for a bungalow. The Lao charm I remember is still strong here - people are happy to stop and chat, and there's a friendly openness I find pleasantly disarming.

The preferred mode of transport on the island is bicycle, and apart some waterfalls, a few fish traps and French era rail infrastructure, the predominant scenery is natural - rice paddies are the mainstay of the island. As I amble around the island on my bicycle, the vibe of life here begins to soak in. Afternoons are spent melting into a hammock, awaking at dusk to the magnificant pastels of another Mekong sunset. Just like waking up in a dream!

After four days on the Mekong, the dream is over, and we hit the road again, heading north to Suvannakhet for a bus to Vietnam. I've enjoyed my time in Laos, apart from some close contact with unchecked tourism, and in hindsight, I've come to a few realisations. Rampant tourism repulses me. Although I see myself as a concious traveller looking for a unique experience, I contribute to the degredation of local customs by my presence; a contradiction that sits poorly with me. Choices I make right now create the Laos of tomorrow, and I know my choices don't always reflect my values - when the internet is slow or the air-conditioner doesn't work, I'm liable to drop the ball. I recognise the inherent hypocrisy and I'm committed to becoming a more concious traveller.

If you're thinking about travelling in Laos, do it. Prepare to be enchanted by genuine smiles and friendly people, relatively poor economically but rich in happiness. Rich dividends are paid to intrepid travellers, with the path less travelled yielding particularly rich rewards. So with that, I bid farewell to BeerLao and prepare for whole new country - Good Morning Vietnam!