Istanbul

Talk about a clash of tradition and modernity - Istanbul, the jewel in the crown of the Turkish empire and at the crossroads of the European and Asian continents is a feast for the senses and the imagination. I didn’t know what to expect, but the city I encountered is refined, confident and relaxed.

At five times during the day, speakers mounted on Mosque spires announce the call to prayer - the first indication that something is different here. On Fridays, the mosques are full to overflowing, because devout Muslims attend for prayers – for the rest of the week they pray at home or work. It's good to witness first hand the practices of the Islamic faith - I'm not Islamic but I feel comfortable being surrounded by devoted worshippers praying. I find it easy to respect people who have religious belief but are comfortable enough with it and themselves not to force it onto others.

Being the low season, streets are uncrowded (with tourists anyway) - shop and restaurant proprietors are keen to see customers, sometimes a little too keen. I reckon if I had a dollar for each time someone offered me a carpet I would be a rich man. Whoever though up the saying 'for all the tea in China' could easily substitute 'for all the carpets in Turkey' - they're everywhere.

It’s really nice to slow up for a bit, sit and watch the traffic go by, and because we have rainy weather, it feels legitimate. We check out the Blue Mosque (top photo), a spectacular example of Ottoman architecture - it has an amazing silence which you only get in 'sacred' places of worship. On my birthday, we venture to a hamam (Turkish bath) for a scrub, massage and sauna - nothing suss, honest. As it's really cold outside, it feels awesome to relax in the hot room and let the stresses of the past few weeks evaporate in plenty of steam.

We also take a ferry up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea and stroll among ancient castle ruins overlooking the junction between the strait and the sea – then as now an important sea trading route. Annually, the Bosphorus sees 60,000 ships, or about one ship every 10 minutes. In the First World War, the British sent battleships to seize control of this shipping route.

Our next stop is Çannakale, just across from the Gallipoli peninsula, which also saw action in the First World War. Australian soldiers, commonly known as Anzacs, were part of the British led force which attempted to claim the Bosphorus. Given the history of Gallipoli, it’s a place I’m looking forward to visit.