The unseen coast

So after visiting Thailand half a dozen times, I decided it was time to check out some of the less touristed parts. On the east coast between Bangkok and Chumpon lies around 600kms of untouched and relatively untouristed beaches. Backpackers generally miss this section of the coast in their hurry to visit Full Moon Party beaches and dive sites of the islands of the gulf... and I for one am guilty of this.

We grab a bus from Bangkok, and within 3 hours, we are standing in the central market of Phetchaburi. A dozy cab driver half heartedly asks us where we are going, but as we refuse his services, he retreats to the sanctuary of his tree. The walk to find a hotel takes about an hour, but its such anovelty – the locals are staring at us, inquisitive and interested in the different people walking up the road. Its such a polar opposite to the raging energy of Bangkok, so clean, simple and quiet.

After a few days here, we head south again to Prachuap Khiri Khan, a sleepy seaside town with beautiful beaches, friendly locals and little development. So this is what an untouristed Thai town looks like! We hit the road on a motorbike to explore the area, and amongst the sleepy fiching towns and old air bases, discover a huge science education park complete with oceanic aquarium – and the entrance fee is only 20 baht per person... that’s around 40 pence in Imperial. Can’t even buy a Coke for that! There's sharks and rays, turtles and all sorts of crustaceans, and it's done really well, with a focus on conservation rather than mastication.

Back out ohn the road, I realise how much I’m enjoying the freedom that a motorbike provides – and though the traffic appears crazy at first, once you get a handle on how it works, it's sweet. Thai drivers have an amazing knack of giving way when there is no room and handling the most erratic traffic conditions with the calmness of a Zen monk. I'm sure that I'm not at monastic level yet, and I don't think I'll ever touch the confidence some of these Thais exude - I think they were born on a motorcycle.

Koh Tao

Sunbathing, diving, diving and more diving. That's the plan for Koh Tao. And it's the perfect place for it too - Koh Tao is a paradise seeker's dream, with thin golden sands and luscious green mountains. A massive diving community plies the turquoise waters around the island, and after our recent visits to landlocked countries and polluted beaches, a good dose of diving is just what the doctor ordered.

It's coming into monsoon season is Thailand, which means hot sultry conditions and regular afternoon downpours. Our bungalow sits just on the waterline, smack bang in between the 2 main settlements of Mae Haad and Sairee on the west side of the island. The balcony collects the deliciously cooling sea breeze, and is a perfect vantage point to watch the sunset over a beer. And what a sunset!

A couple of days of settling in later, we take off on our first dive trip. There's been whispers of Whale Sharks in the past few weeks, and I'm fanging to see one. As we head to a dive site, the captain hears on the radio that a Whale Shark is at Chumpon Pinnacle - the opposite way. The captain whips the boat around in a flash, and we're heading for the pinnacle at top speed. We arrive just as other divers are coming up, and drop into an amazing show - one relatively small 10-12 metre long Whale Shark effortlessly cruising between the underwater peaks around Chumpon Pinnacle. There's a whole array of smaller fish tagging along, and we join around 20 other divers watching the amazing creature swim past - simply spectacular.

We slide into a nice relaxed routine of morning dives, afternoon naps and sunset beers, with a few rest days thrown in for sun baking and exploring the island... sounds like a tough life, huh?

Back to the land of smiles

It's like catching up with an old friend after years apart - ah, Bangkok, don't you ever change! The Koh Sahn area has become a decompression chamber for me ever since I started coming to Asia nearly 8 years ago. After nearly a dozen visits, it's second nature so I relax and let my guard down.

A place to tag in, get some stuff we need, and hit the road a few days later. Catch up on cheap internet and tasty street food. Haggle with the same street vendors and visit the same pancake dude. Who says you can't have a routine while travelling the world?

A gritty little town called Battambang

A town like a lot of little towns in Cambodia. A sticky bitumen strip running down the middle, crowded on both sides by shops selling all manner of goods and services. A couple of blocks back is the river, where sweaty seafood restaurants compete for priority along the muddy banks. The smoky smell of charcoal roasted seafood fills the air. Away from the river, the network of bitumen quickly gives way to dusty earth.

The hotel we stay at looks like a scene from a 60's movie - cracked walls and flaking paint, a creaky door and a leaky toilet. The fan sounds like a Cessna on takeoff, and has built up an evil wobble which threatens to detach it from the ceiling. This room could tell some stories, I'll bet.

Battambang was Khmer Rouge heartland during their heyday, and remnants remain if you look hard enough. One of the local tourist sites is a mountain packed to the hilt with Buddha statues and monuments. According to locals, the mountain also boasts a network of caves where Khmer Rouge undertook executions. I can't resist the urge to explore some caves we happen upon, and make a grizzly discovery - a pile of human bones - instantly sending shivers up my spine. I emerge from the cave sweaty and agitated, my mind awash with images of writhing torture and pain. Once again, I find it hard to understand how pure ideas can generate such wicked actions. Can hate ever spawn a positive outcome?

I think my experience in the caves has tipped me over the edge, and I'm glad to see Battambang disappear in the distance. I really enjoyed my time in Cambodia - the people are amazingly friendly and kind, considering their recent history. Nonetheless, as we hurtle towards Poipet and the Thailand border, I'm glad to be heading back in the land of smiles. Next stop, Bangkok.

What Wat is that?

Of all the things that come to mind when you mention Cambodia, it' s hard to imagine the temples of Angkor coming anywhere except number one on the list of amazing sites. And the photos don't do it any justice - this really is an amazing feast for the senses. I would easily put this in a league with the Pyramids of Egypt for sheer scale and magnitude - it demonstrates to me the power of spiritual devotion... really is amazing what people will do in the name of a deity.

The cream of the crop is Angkor Wat, a well preserved 12th century religious monument. This popular Wat is on everyone's itinerary - any moto driver worth his salt takes you to Angkor Wat, and of all the temples in the Angkor period settlement, it's by far the most famous. The crowds and touts are understandably horrendous, and somehow the sunrise is not as spectacular when you share it with thousands of flashing cameras. Still pretty good though - mmm, aren't I a snob?

Because we have an extended stay in Siem Reap, we explore some of the less known temples and we are rewarded by quiet sites, friendly locals and some really well preserved ruins. Some of the temples are dedicated to Hindu gods while others are devoted to Buddhist deities, and the most interesting are a combination of the two.

Although the Khmer Rouge abolished all religion, the temples of Angkor remained largely untouched by their hand. Unfortunately, light fingered treasure hunters helped themselves to a great swathe of priceless Cambodian artifacts evidenced by, among other things, headless statues. The current Cambodian administration are strict with captured opportunists, hopefully keeping the temples in tact for future generations to visit and admire.

Of all the temples, the most interesting one for me was Ta Phrom. Unlike the rest of the temples, Ta Phrom has been 'spared' from a constant preservation and restoration schedule and so the forest is slowly returning to claim the structure. Out of all the temples, it feels the most authentic - I expect a thousand year old temple to have some imperfections. The huge strangler figs stretch their fingers down into the earth, creating a mysterious atmosphere around the ancient walls - it's hard not to sit and soak up the vibes.

Raining on the plains

After the harrowing realities of the Khmer Rouge in Phnom Penh, we head south to the coast with Jamie and Sarah, a couple from Australia and the US respectively. The dust is replaced by mud as the monsoon kicks into high gear, and we scuttle between monsoonal downpours like rock bound crabs between waves.

With a couple of book stores, a few cafes and some quiet bars, Kampot, on the south coast of Cambodia, is a beautiful little town well worth spending a few days exploring. Unfortunately, the weather prevents us getting out of foot, so we commandeer a motorbike with a covered trailer for exploration. We scamper through some caves escorted by some enterprising young Cambodian lads - apparently the Khmer Rouge destroyed some of the Buddhist icons in the cave during their reign and consequently they are in ruins. Cheeky little tour guides ask for 1 US dollar for their services... we oblige. Got to reward enterprise, I reckon.

But after a week lurking around on the south coast, it's time to head north to Siem Reap... apparently there's a few temples up there worth looking at.

A heart of darkness

The Cambodian capital is refreshing different to Vietnam - its grubbier and poorer at first glance, but with open and friendly locals. Cambodia's recent political history looms large over the capital. Although Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge are now long gone, if you listen to the background noise, you can almost hear the voices screaming. The sound of a tortured nation.

An ancient prophecy foretells: A darkness will settle on the people of Cambodia. There will be houses but no people in them, roads but no travellers; the land will be ruled by barbarians with no religion; blood will run so deep as to touch the belly of the elephant. Only the deaf and mute will survive. People will be so hungry that they will run after a dog to fight for a grain of rice that has stuck to its tail.

All across the city are remnants of the oppressive nature of the regime. S21 was a school-cum-prison where the regime interned 20,000 opponents. Seven lived to speak about it. I'm repulsed by the methodical organisation evident during our visit. How humans can embrace and act on such extreme hate for one another is beyond me. The vibe of terror pervades the grounds and buildings, and as we walk around I can feel resonant anguish of thousands of victims. I'm tense and edgy. Each of the prison rooms are adorned with the original beds and torture equipment, giving an overall grizzly, macabre ambiance.

From the prison, we head to the aptly named Killing Fields, where Cambodians in their thousands were slaughtered. My rational mind seeks to attribute some reason to the actions of the Khmer Rouge because I want to believe that there is a reason for what they did. Still, I'm not sure that any reason would come up to scratch. I'm shocked by the cruelty. I can't understand why a quarter of the population, nearly 2 million people, were killed. It's obviously deranged and insane - I can't understand how an idea be so powerful that it severs your connection to your fellow man.