The unseen coast

So after visiting Thailand half a dozen times, I decided it was time to check out some of the less touristed parts. On the east coast between Bangkok and Chumpon lies around 600kms of untouched and relatively untouristed beaches. Backpackers generally miss this section of the coast in their hurry to visit Full Moon Party beaches and dive sites of the islands of the gulf... and I for one am guilty of this.

We grab a bus from Bangkok, and within 3 hours, we are standing in the central market of Phetchaburi. A dozy cab driver half heartedly asks us where we are going, but as we refuse his services, he retreats to the sanctuary of his tree. The walk to find a hotel takes about an hour, but its such anovelty – the locals are staring at us, inquisitive and interested in the different people walking up the road. Its such a polar opposite to the raging energy of Bangkok, so clean, simple and quiet.

After a few days here, we head south again to Prachuap Khiri Khan, a sleepy seaside town with beautiful beaches, friendly locals and little development. So this is what an untouristed Thai town looks like! We hit the road on a motorbike to explore the area, and amongst the sleepy fiching towns and old air bases, discover a huge science education park complete with oceanic aquarium – and the entrance fee is only 20 baht per person... that’s around 40 pence in Imperial. Can’t even buy a Coke for that! There's sharks and rays, turtles and all sorts of crustaceans, and it's done really well, with a focus on conservation rather than mastication.

Back out ohn the road, I realise how much I’m enjoying the freedom that a motorbike provides – and though the traffic appears crazy at first, once you get a handle on how it works, it's sweet. Thai drivers have an amazing knack of giving way when there is no room and handling the most erratic traffic conditions with the calmness of a Zen monk. I'm sure that I'm not at monastic level yet, and I don't think I'll ever touch the confidence some of these Thais exude - I think they were born on a motorcycle.

Koh Tao

Sunbathing, diving, diving and more diving. That's the plan for Koh Tao. And it's the perfect place for it too - Koh Tao is a paradise seeker's dream, with thin golden sands and luscious green mountains. A massive diving community plies the turquoise waters around the island, and after our recent visits to landlocked countries and polluted beaches, a good dose of diving is just what the doctor ordered.

It's coming into monsoon season is Thailand, which means hot sultry conditions and regular afternoon downpours. Our bungalow sits just on the waterline, smack bang in between the 2 main settlements of Mae Haad and Sairee on the west side of the island. The balcony collects the deliciously cooling sea breeze, and is a perfect vantage point to watch the sunset over a beer. And what a sunset!

A couple of days of settling in later, we take off on our first dive trip. There's been whispers of Whale Sharks in the past few weeks, and I'm fanging to see one. As we head to a dive site, the captain hears on the radio that a Whale Shark is at Chumpon Pinnacle - the opposite way. The captain whips the boat around in a flash, and we're heading for the pinnacle at top speed. We arrive just as other divers are coming up, and drop into an amazing show - one relatively small 10-12 metre long Whale Shark effortlessly cruising between the underwater peaks around Chumpon Pinnacle. There's a whole array of smaller fish tagging along, and we join around 20 other divers watching the amazing creature swim past - simply spectacular.

We slide into a nice relaxed routine of morning dives, afternoon naps and sunset beers, with a few rest days thrown in for sun baking and exploring the island... sounds like a tough life, huh?