Back to the backyard

After nearly 2 years in new and strange countries, gathering passport stamps and visas by the dozen, it's really nice to be back in Thailand. In stark contrast to Egypt, Thailand is green and humid, and Bangkok is cosmopolitan and relaxed. Five days in the capital pass like a blur. Khao San Road is the same as it always is - loud, manic, overwhelming, but strangely comforting. The first walk down the strip always elicits a broad grin: everyone's here to have a good time right now.

After visas and supplies are procured, spring roll fetishes are somewhat satiated, and we're kind of used to the humidity, we head north towards Laos. I know I shouldn't be surprised, but one thing that's immediately apparent is the proliferation of tourism in the Thai capital since my last visit, and I'm looking forward to lurking around in the quiet backwaters of northern Laos and soaking up some "traditional" life. Breaking our northbound trip in Chiang Rai, we settle into a monsoon timetable - steamy mornings, thundery afternoons and sweltering nights. And the weather is pretty hot too.... Chaing Rai is quieter and less intense than its bigger sister, Chaing Mai, and I feel its a good precursor to Laos. Life is slowing up a little - we don't have specific plan each day and the atmosphere is more amenable to reading and relaxing. But not too much!

We grab a local bus to the norther Thai border town of Chaing Khong, a slow, stop-start-stop jaunt and head directly to Thai immigration. A few stamps and a boat ride later, we are standing a Mekong's width and a world away from Thailand - the sleepy little Laos village of Huay Xai. I travelled through this neck of the woods 4 years ago, and I'm keen to sniff out the old haunts, see what's changed and what's the same, and scope out some new parts of the country.

Exitlude

And so it ends...

The Middle East has enchanted me with its beautiful, friendly and welcoming people, the warmth of which I have rarely encountered amongst strangers. There are memories, rich and strange, which I'll carry with me until my twilight years, memories that will bring a smile to an old man's face on his death bed. Amazing times spent with the very best of people, pushed to within a feather of the edge - so free and so alive.

There are so many cool things to recall - the highlights... where do I begin? For sheer natural beauty, I can't go past the underwater scenery and marine life of the Red Sea. The deserts of both Jordan and Syria wowed me myriads of stars and their deafening silence. Truly breathtaking. Resisting the comfort of luxury air-conditioned tourist coaches in favour of the local bus gave me a unique perspective into life on the ground, removed from the facade generally presented to tourists. Meeting friendly roadside food stall owners and seeing their countenances light up when you return to eat at their stall. Seeing first-hand the passionate expression that is Islam without the biased filter of East vs. West, down on street level where religious practice is part of the social fabric. Funnily enough, on Fridays after a day of prayer and religious instruction, locals are blissed out and subdued, the vicious bartering and touting of the rest of the week forgotten, if only for an afternoon. It's like the feeling you get in western countries around Christmas time, only here the 'Christmas spirit' happens every week!

But if I had to pick one highlight, it would be the people of the region. Before I travelled here, I'd heard about the hospitality of the Middle East, but nothing prepares you for the genuine warmth you receive every day on the street. A special mention goes out to Syria, where I received the heartiest of welcomes. Recently, the intransigent US renewed sanctions against Syria - apparently not enough concessions have been made against terrorism. But while the "big boys" discuss regional and global geopolitics, everyday activities go on as they always have, ignoring the international political chess game. That's not to say this doesn't affect people - business and tourism is adversely affected by US sanctions. However, the rich, welcoming and overwhelmingly genuine greeting that I've received suggests that it doesn't really matter to the little guy - he's going to greet you as a fellow human being no matter what happens. It's a truly humbling experience to be accepted with such unpretentious love.

The low lights... well, after the highlights, these are going to sound petty. In Egypt in particular, there's a constant on guard feeling - to relax is to be scammed. I'm sure I look like a walking wallet to some of them, and when life is tough, it must be hard to swallow that others - white skinned affluent tourists - have substantially more means than you. In that light, I can understand why scammers try, but it makes you feel harrowed when every transaction easily descends into an argument over price, and a simple walk means opening yourself to the insistent attention of a thousand touts and hawkers.

There's other things too, a little more personal. Like meeting an Iranian family on a boat in Turkey, a couple of proud parents touring with their two sons and a daughter. The daughter is outspoken - a Masters student in International Law, she dreams of working for the UN and quizzes us on our perceptions of Iran and terrorism. I can see that she feels the international slight against her country personally. I reach to shake her hand as we leave the boat and she refuses point blank, as shaking a man's hand risks bringing disrepute to her and her family. An honest mistake, a definite social faux pas that I came to regret deeply.

As I look back over the past 3 months, I'm left with an powerful feeling of fulfillment and happiness. Sure, there were tough times, but the good times easily outweigh the bad. I've come away with thousand smiles and memories that will last a lifetime. If you ever get the chance to visit this amazing part of our planet, grab the opportunity with outstretched arms. You won't regret it.

Alex and Cairo

After the heat of Luxor, its nice to get to the ocean again - and although we are in Africa, the Mediterranean Sea coast of Egypt reminds me of Greece and Turkey. The vibe in Alexandria is relaxed and easy going, and we spend a few days strolling along the sea and relaxing. It's coming to the end of our Middle East stint, and with only 5 days before we fly out, we pack up and head for the big smoke - Cairo.

The population of Cairo tips the scales at around 25 million - a super city in anyone's estimation. There's so much to see and do here, and rumour has it that Egyptian Immigration officials won't let you leave until you've visited the pyramids - so along with the famous Egyptian museum, the Giza Pyramids are on the top of our list.

The Pyramids are in the outer suburbs of Cairo - I'll never forget the first view of them across the urban sprawl. Of course, we climb inside the Great Pyramid and sit inside the burial chamber for around 20 minutes - its eerie to think that a Pharoah was buried in this room with his loot - wives, gold, jewels, food and animals - over 4,500 years ago. The scale of the entire site is overwhelming and due to the distances between pyramids (there are 9 in the area), we decide to hire a camel. After some fairly fierce bartering, we 'agree' and mount the trusty beast for a unique perspective of the Giza site. Honestly, riding a camel is really uncomfortable and a little overrated. Had to do it once though!

There's also some other less well known sites we want to visit, things that you can only see in Cairo. In particular, the Birqash Camel Market - where camels walked up from central Africa are bought and sold - turns your understanding of normality on its head (a.k.a. head-f**k). It's loud, hot and there's thousands of camels moaning and attempting to run about. Camel traders find it necessary to beat the camels relentlessly - everywhere a camel turns, a trader with a stick stands with evil in his eye. An assault on the senses does not even begin to approximate the experience, and after only 30 minutes, I've had enough. Even as I write this, I'm not sure I have recovered fully - I know it's reality, but the cruelty is extreme and senseless. I'd recommend it only if you have a strong stomach...

Camels waiting to be purchased

A trader takes a break from beating camels

An unhealthy camel voices complaint

Valley of the Kings

'The land breathes with the presence of those dead men who had struggled and prospered long before I was born' - James Lee Bourke

On the outside, the Valley of the Kings is unassuming, no different to the others that surround it... at least on the surface. Everywhere I look, tailing piles indicate the search for buried treasure, the death and times of long forgotten Pharaoh's and their loot. Hidden beneath the surface are tombs, rich and beautiful, adorned with the stories of Egyptian civilisation and mythology thousands of years old.

They say you never forget the first time... and as we descend down the passage and into the first antechamber of Tuthmosis III, we're transported back 3000 years to an unforgettable set of scenes carved into solid rock where heiroglyphics have the centre stage and the line between myth and fact blurs into obscurity. Mr T III had a grand send off - his tomb is intricately decorated with a full suite of mythological paintings and writing to send his soul safely through to the underworld, and protected with an elaborate array of booby traps to protect the loot from grave robbers. It's mindblowing to see firsthand the dedication to death and the afterlife - 63 tombs and chambers of various sizes are located in the valley, an amazing tribute to a civilisation long since past.

Nile under sail

A ship is safe in harbor, but that's not what ships are for - Shedd

We set sail from Aswan with 2 days under sail ahead of us. The wind blows from the north, requiring a slow starboard - port - starboard approach. Unlike the restrictive modes of land transport, there are no lines on the water and the sail silently replaces the roar of internal combustion engines. There is something majestic about taking to the water in a sailing boat, at the mercy of currents and winds. I feel close to nature out here on the water, connected and yet untethered.

Along with the wind and the current, our captain, Ziggy, pushes the boat northward towards Luxor. The sinking sun provides a magical backdrop, and with a few local brews cooling off in the water, a book and a pillow, this is going to be a perfect couple of days.

Aswan blues

Snap back to a new reality - the endless boulevard of harassment. Dahab was great, but damn, I feel soft. We've just hopped off a 24 hour bus - train combination and as we stroll along the Nile, our backpacks straining to the sky, an invisible signal goes out. All touts, uber-friendly salesmen who work for commission, descend on fresh meat. Imagine sprinkling food into a fishbowl.

Everywhere we turn, some offers felucca, papyrus, alabaster, taxi, hotel and horse. I'm getting hoarse saying la-ah shukran (no thanks) and Steph is ready to explode. As the tether reaches its limit, we find a perfect room and watch the feluccas tustle and the sun making its descent below the mountains. The depth and breadth of the Nile is immense, easily a couple of kilometres wide, dark like jet black ink. Desert laps the shores, and I shudder to think how hot and inhospitable Aswan, and indeed Egypt, would be without these cool, life-giving waters. I can imagine Pharaohs thundering up and down this very river, and boats by the thousand - a little like it is today.

Two things are in close proximity to Aswan. First, its close to Abu Simbel... our travel plans there are in the pipeline, but more about that later. Second, it's the hopping on point for a quintessentially Nile thing to do - a ride on an Egyptian sailing boat, the felucca. There's plenty of people ready to sell us a trip, but we want a couple of days and nights sleeping on the boat and sailing along the river. As luck would have it, our coffee shop man knows a 'friend' who can organise our trip - sounded a bit shady but we decide to go with Mr Coffee shop. When we get back from Abu Simbel, we'll jump onto a felucca for 2 days and 2 nights.

<div>Snap back to a new reality - the endless boulevard of harrassment. Dahab was great, but damn, I feel soft. We've just hopped off a 24 hour bus - train combination and as we stroll along the Nile, our backpacks straining to the sky, an invisible signal goes out. All touts, uber-friendly salesmen who work for commission, descend on fresh meat. Imagine sprinkling food into a fishbowl. Everywhere we turn, some offers felucca, papyrus, alabaster, taxi, hotel and horse. I'm getting hoarse saying la-ah shukran (no thanks) and Steph is ready to explode. As the tether reaches its limit, we find a perfect room and watch the feluccas tustle and the sun making its descent below the mountains. The depth and breadth of the Nile is immense, easily a couple of kilometres wide, dark like jet black ink. Desert laps the shores, and I shudder to think how hot and inhospitable Aswan, and indeed Egypt, would be without these cool, life-giving waters. I can imagine Pharoahs thundering up and down this very river, and boats by the thousand - a little like it is today.</div> <div>2 things are in close proximity to Aswan. First, its close to Abu Simbel... our travel plans there are in the pipeline, but more about that later. Second, it's the hopping on point for a quintessentially Nile thing to do - a ride on an Egyptian sailing boat, the felucca. There's plenty of people ready to sell us a trip, but we want a couple of days and nights sleeping on the boat and sailing along the river. As luck would have it, our coffee shop man knows a 'friend' who can organise our trip - sounded a bit shady but we decide to go with Mr Coffee shop. When we get back from Abu Simbel, we'll jump onto a felucca for 2 days and 2 nights. </div> <div>Forty kilometres north of the Sudanese border lies the town of Abu Simbel, well known for its Pharoaic era temple built by Ramses II. Looking south towards the heart of Africa, this imposing group of four 20 metre high solid stone Pharoahs peer menacingly at any would-be intruders. At 6am, Abu Simbel lies quiet and uncrowded and even after more than 3200 years, the huge monolithic Pharoahs are as intimidating as ever. Back in Abu Simbel town, the feel is distinctly African. Skins are black, and hair is tightly curled and dark - most identify as Nubian rather than Egyptian. As most tourists visit Abu Simbel on a day trip from Aswan, we pretty much have the place to ourselves. Locals are generally friendly, and more interested in conversation than the size of our wallets. How refreshing!</div>

Forty kilometres north of the Sudanese border lies the town of Abu Simbel, well known for its Pharoaic era temple built by Ramses II. Looking south towards the heart of Africa, this imposing group of four 20 metre high solid stone Pharoahs peer menacingly at any would-be intruders. At 6am, Abu Simbel lies quiet and uncrowded and even after more than 3200 years, the huge monolithic Pharoahs are as intimidating as ever. Back in Abu Simbel town, the feel is distinctly African. Skins are black, and hair is tightly curled and dark - most identify as Nubian rather than Egyptian. As most tourists visit Abu Simbel on a day trip from Aswan, we pretty much have the place to ourselves. Locals are generally friendly, and more interested in conversation than the size of our wallets. How refreshing!

Dahab - into the deep blue

After the desert of sands in Jordan and Syria, I'm hanging out for some rest and relaxation on the liquid desert. Like the deserts of sand we've been trekking through, the liquid sea is shimmering and supremely confident of itself. Looking across the Red Sea towards the mountains of Saudi Arabia, the sea has assumed a soft, viscous oil composition, relaxed yet pulsing with energy. That's right, we've made it to Egypt!

We're staying in Dahab on the eastern side of the Sinai peninsula - and it's so relaxed it's almost horizontal. There's dive companies, bungalows and chilled out cushioned restaurants right on the water, Jack Johnson and Bob Marley on the speakers, and some of the best diving in the world right on your doorstep. We find a nice base on the quiet end of the strip and meet up with our kiwi travel companions at Penguin to whet the whistle with an ice-cold beer. Just to be beside the ocean again gives a feeling of renewal and revitalisation. The sun dips behind the mountains, licking the sky with brushstrokes of scarlet, violet and orange. The sea is burnt orange glass, flat, calm and quiet. Since I first fell in love with the ocean in my early teens, (not THAT long ago!!) I've dreamt of the Red Sea. As I look across the Gulf of Aquaba towards Saudi Arabia, I'm falling in love all over again and I smile at the realisation of a long-held dream. Now to get under the water!

The next day is a flurry of activity - the plan is to do an Advanced Padi course and then do some recreational diving afterwards. I'm keen to meet and chat with divemasters and instructors all along the strip to find out what's available and see who I like. In the end, it's easy to make a selection - Mohsen is an Egyptian instructor with a great sense of humour and more than 5000 dives under his belt... and his confidence and experience shines through. The video clip below is our deep dive to a popular site in Dahab, the Canyon.

The underwater environment is spectacular - my dreams didn't cover the vivid colours and vast biodiversity. Maybe it's because I haven't been in the water for a while, but from memory, this rivals the waters of the southern Barrier Reef - and as a proud Australian, that is reallly saying something.

I'm quickly recognising all the usual suspects: Angelfish, Damsels in their thousands, Wrasse, wrasse and more wrasse, Anenomefish (nemo's), Parrotfish munching the corals - fish of every colour and size, soft and hard corals, and without a doubt the clearest water I have ever dived in. It is like diving in an aquarium...but don't take my word for it, check out the photos - truly f**king amazing!

Since I left London, I've realised that working inside does not inspire me. I've given a lot of thought to the lifestyle I want to create for myself. When I reach Thailand in a couple of months, I'm going to complete a Divemaster certification so I can spend my time diving in tropical locations, living near the ocean, and watching the sun rise and set. It's a world away from the climate controlled corporate office, and for the moment, that's just the way I want it!